How to Commission Me

If you have never asked an artist to make something for you, don't know how, or even if you have commissioned someone before, Every Artist is Different. How an artist handles business will vary from person to person, but there are some agreed upon common courtesy things to keep in mind.

• Check an artist's work before hiring them to make sure it's a style you want.
• Make all agreements in writing and in a place you can find messages easily.
• Don't pay until the artist asks for payment. The artist usually sends an invoice with the amount to be paid.
• The price for custom work is generally higher than you think. 😵💰
• Advertising, exposure or experience does not count as currency.
• Prompt communication is important for finishing a project by the deadline! We cannot read minds. 🧠👀
• We can work with your budget if you tell us what you can spend. (We should know of alternative materials that would lower the price a bit or break up the price so you don't have to spend much in one go.)
• Artists allow for different levels of client involvement throughout the process. Ask the artist early on how to best keep you in the loop.

FAQ

What do I need to do to ask for a commission?
My preference is for you to fill out a form (listed above) or to email me directly with the inquiry. I'm not an on-demand shop, these are requests. If I turn down a request, I will do my best to refer you to a capable alternative artist or a group where similar talent may be found.
One of the prerequisites for commission requests is my availability and current work-load.
You can view my Trello Board to see my current work-load. (It does include personal projects.)

Why won't you make (insert request here) for me?
There could be a myriad of reasons for me to refuse a request. Most commonly it has to do with time and ability. I do work a full time job in addition to Commissions, so if there is a due date that I know I can't make or it is beyond my current abilities, then I will not take on the project. I do not want to give you a rushed or shoddy product because of time constraints or my lack of skill. I love learning, but not at a client's expense. 

Another reason may be that we may not be a good fit for working together. Commissions are a two-way street.  Poor communication, unachievable expectations or over-estimating my skills will make the experience a poor one (in my experience. I've unfortunately had a few rough clients.) 

There are also a few ideological subject matters I am not comfortable having attached to my name. I will reserve my right to refuse my business if it is in opposition to my value system. (Just as an example, I will not draw pornographic images.)

How do I pay?
Electronic payments are my preferred method of payment. I utilize Venmo, Paypal, Zelle or Bank Transfers in these cases. I will only take cash or checks from people I know in-person.
You are expected to pay after you get the invoice. In the invoice email,  there will be links to the payment method. As well as any relevant help articles should you need assistance.

I can't afford a commission, can I get a discount?
For most of my rates, I have calculated in there the cost of my labor, materials, wear and tear of tools, and time. I am not making large profits off of commissions.

If you are on a budget, I can work with you by suggesting alternative materials to reduce cost or splitting up the payment to a "down payment" and then final payment.

I've noticed a mistake in the work you gave me. Can you fix it?
Please...don't look at it! I'm ashamed! 😭 If there is a glaring mistake, please feel free to point it out. I will do my best to correct mistakes if I can.
For larger projects often times I look for feedback before moving too far along. I try my best to create things based off of descriptions and my interpretation may be off. Particularly for OC plushies, armor, and costume parts I will work closely with a client to get approvals during the process to avoid these kinds of mistakes.

I don't like the finished product. Can I get my money back?
No. I will only refund commissions I cancel. I can refund damaged items (shipment carrier's fault) or items that get lost in the mail if you ship with Insurance. I don't offer refunds for feelings.

Can I sell, trade or give away the finished product?
Yes and no.  Trading, swapping or giving the product away is fine. Once you start thinking about selling there are a few limitations. 

In regards to physical things I send (plushies, costumes, armor etc), you can sell these items since they are One of a Kind (OOAK) and not easily reproducible. 

Digital art however, you cannot sell or use on merchandise without paying a licensing fee. You can put it on a sticker or t-shirt or mug or whatever if it is only for yourself. 

More details on this are covered in my Terms & Conditions. It's kind of important to read that. I know it's long-ish and boring.

How to Send Your Measurements

If you are commissioning me for something you wear, I will require measurements. There are a couple ways you can send them to me.

Method 1 - Email Numbers

In this version you take the measurements at home, record the numbers for each and email me the numbers. Below are my suggested methods for taking your own measurements. 

Measuring Tape

Wear whatever you intend to wear underneath or just undergarments. Use ribbon-like measuring tape to take measurements. You can do this on your own or get a friend to help.

The basic process is to hold the end with the number 1 against the starting point of the measurement.
Wrap the tape around the body part until it meets the starting point again. Overlap the tap and see where the line where the starting tab sits.

For length, hold the starting end at one end of the measurement. Keeping close against the body, run your fingers along the tape, keeping it taut until you reach the end of the length. The line where you stop with your fingers is your length measurement.

Tips:

• Stand up with your best posture for torso measurements 
• Don't hold your breath or suck in your stomach to make yourself skinnier. Relax. Take a deep breath and let it out slowly. 
• Don't wrap it too tight. You don't want it to bite into the skin. It should rest snug against your body. 
• Measure twice if you need to. 
• Tape a safety pin one end. You can use this as a way to slide the other end through and measure circumference. It is also helpful to measure certain lengths by pinning one end to the top instead of holding both ends.
• Write down the measurement after each measurement.  
• If you need to round a measurement, round up, not down. I can do more with something that is too big than with something that is too small. 
• Don't feel bad or guilty about your size. Knowing your number makes it possible to be comfortable while wearing the piece. It does no good to lie about your numbers. ;)

Masking Tape

This is my own cheater, cheater pumpkin eater way of taking measurements without measuring tape.
It requires masking tape, a marker, and a ruler or measuring device.

For this you would wear the appropriate clothes that you would wear with the piece. Start to unravel the roll a bit and stick it to the starting point.
For circumference, unravel the roll around your body part pressing it against your clothes as you go until it meets up with the starting point. Tear the tape and mark the overlap.
Take the tape off and lay it down on a flat surface. (You can use wrapping paper or just your floor or table). You can measure the length with a tape measurer, measuring tape, or yard stick or whatever.

Length: unravel from start to finish. You can make marks if you don't have even tears. Place on the flat surface and measure.

Reference Video:

Method 2 - Duct Tape Dummy 

A duct tape dummy acts as a sort of life-cast of the wearer that I use for reference. It must be shipped physically. 

For this you wear throw-away clothes, use plastic wrap, and strips of duct tape to construct a body double. You will need another person there to cut you from your duct tape prison. Then tape the seam.

If you are making a duct tape dummy to send to me, please mail it to me unstuffed. This makes it easier to ship.

Depending on the piece of armor/costume you're requesting, I may not need a neck to toe duct tape dummy. You could send just a limb or torso. I've been able to successfully cut out shoulder to wrist arms and thigh to foot forms on my own.

References for this Method:

Female:

Male:

Alternatives to the duct tape dummy

If you're an eccentric, anti-social hermit like myself, the duct tape dummy is not an option. Because I have no one to cut me out of the prison of tape. So, what alternatives do you have? Well, you can create a dress form from a sewing pattern. Check out the link below.

Alternative to Duct Tape Dummy: Dress Form Sewing Pattern

Basically you enter your measurements and it creates a custom pattern to make a dress form or dress form part.

How to Ship a Dummy 

Before you are cut from your piece, draw the cut seam and include horizontal dashes so I can match them back up. Then cut yourself free. You should be able to fold the form in a way that in to can fit into a bubble mailer or a flat rate box at your local post office. 

I will piece it back together and stuff it once it arrives.

If you go the route of the Sewing Pattern,  you must sew the pattern, but leave it unstuffed and send it to me in the same way you would a duct tape dummy.

Materials I Use: Plushies

Stuffed Animal Fabrics

For all my plush animal projects I will generally use the following fabrics.

Minky - this is a synthetic fabric often used to make baby blankets. It has a short pile and acts like short fur. It is stretchy and smooth. It comes in a variety of colors, patterns, textures, and pile lengths. I generally prefer "Cuddle Minky" with 1 - 3 mm pile length. Most colors of Minky I have to buy online, it can cost between 8 - 15 USD a yard and I must purchase by full yards for every color.

See some examples of my minky animals here:

 

Flannel - this is a wool based fabric also used in baby clothes that has a soft texture. It is a stretchy fabric and soft to the touch but it has no "fur" effect. It comes in a wide range of colors and patterns. 

It's a reasonably priced fabric ranging from 4 - 10 USD per yard. 

Here's an example of a Flannel based plush: 

Fleece - A polyester fabric made to mimic wool has a slight fuzzy texture. It's often used for jackets and blankets. It's a bit stretchy but a little on the heavier side of fabrics.  Fleece has a decent range of colors and patterns, including animal print patterns. It can be fairly inexpensive at 3 - 8 USD per yard. 

Cotton - Quilting cotton is a low-priced fabric that is usually between 2 - 6 USD per yard.

It is not stretchy and often coarse to the touch. It has a huge range of colors and patterns. I don't generally make stuffed animals with this but on occasion I do. It works great for oddly shaped projects or poses. 

Generally, this is reserved for parts of larger plushies, like the eyes of this plushie:

Specialty Fabrics

These are materials I'll use only if the project calls for it. These fabrics tend to be very expensive, heavy and difficult to work with. These can range from 10 - 35 USD per yard and sometimes more. Yikes. 

Velvet or Velveteen - a rich, buttery fabric, heavy with a very short pile length.

Faux Fur - synthetic fur on knit fabric

Long-pile Faux Fur - Synthetic fur on knit fabric that is over 6mm in pile length.

Mohair - the stuff teddy bears are made from. Generally natural or synthetic pile hairs on a woven non-stretch fabric. 

Visual Novel Commissions

What is a Visual Novel?

A visual novel (VN) is a storytelling medium using static characters exchanging dialog with illustration scattered throughout. Sometimes it includes reader input with choose-your-own-adventure type stories or stat building.

Screenshot from Line of Heroes by Me!

Sprite Art 

Sprites refer to the character art used during the "talking" portions of the game. They generally have a static pose but change expression based on the text. I offer to make sprites for these types of games.

Sprite Art Commissions

Status - Currently Closed

Full Size Sprite - A complete head to toe rendering of a character.
A base sprite comes with 1 pose, 1 outfit, and 4 expressions (Neutral, Happy, Sad, Angry).

Chibi Sprites/Super Deformed - A super-deformed miniature version of the character, great for menus or mini-scenes. 

Live2D Sprites - An animate 2D sprite to make it look more alive.

Pricing

• A base sprite costs around 30 USD at least. 
• Purchasing more than 2 characters will qualify for a package deal. (5% - 20% depending on the cast size.)
• Additional expressions are 0.50 USD each
• Additional outfits can vary from 5 - 20 USD depending on complexity. (Color variations of a shirt or dress for example do not count as new outfits.)
• Additional poses will vary based on complexity 5 - 20 USD (Changing the position of one limb vs completely different angle.) 
• Chibi Sprites - 6 USD each. 
• 0.25 USD for extra expressions.
• Animation 
• Blinking and Mouth flaps (5 - 20 USD)
• Animated expressions (10 - 25 USD)
• Full Animated sprites (20+ USD)
• Deliverable (final file format I send this in)
• PSD File* (+10 USD) 
• PSD for Live2D** (+25 USD)
• PNG (transparent)
• GIF (animated)
• Live2D file 
• Planning to Sell the game?
• See my Commercial Pricing

*Note on PSD files: You are free to make your own edits to PSD files which is why it costs a bit extra.  

**Live2D works best with a lot of layers to animate. It's also a great format for building your own poses and expressions even if you're not planning on using Live2D. See this Tutorial for an idea of what you're getting.  

Example:

This character has 8 outfits(20 USD each)
1 hair and eye color variant (no charge)
10 different expressions in addition to the default 4 (.50 USD each)

Final Deliverables:
PNG files: 195 USD
PSD file: 205 USD
Live2D PSD file: 215 USD

If each outfit needed to be in the two poses:
Since it's just an arm change +5USD for each outfit
PNG: 235 USD
PSD:  245 USD
Live2D PSD: 255 USD

Obviously this is a pretty intense character sprite and not at all what I'd consider common. But it does illustrate how I might break down a price based on need. I will always give options!
VN Sprite Order Form

Sample Evaluations

So here's a few samples of a character to plush evaluation.

Rough Edges - "Standard"

This character would be considered my base-line for a "standard" pony project. 

• 2 Fabric Colors
• Standard Stallion Pattern with Standard Pegasus wings
• Markings - 5 o'clock shadow
• Cutie Mark - 1 color, simple design
• Mane/Tail - beard, short tail, short mane with sideburns
• No Costume 

Making this out of Cotton or Flannel would be at the 150 USD mark while in minky it's closer to 170 USD.

Tender Heart - "Standard+"

This is also a mostly standard style pony but there would be a minor price adjustment for the hooves and extra embroidery. 

• 2 Fabric Colors
• Standard Stallion Patten with Standard Pegasus wings
• Cutie Mark -2 colors, Simple shapes
• Other Markings - 5 o'clock shadow, fluffy Hooves, Eyebrows
• Mane/Tail - Beard, Short tail, long mane
• No Costume

This would likely start at 160 USD if made in Cotton.

Acid Splash - "Standard+ with Extras"

This project would be a complicated one because there are color changes in the mane, a costume, extra doo-dads, and heavy eye makeup. 

• 3 Fabric Colors
• Standard Mare Pattern
• Cutie Mark: 2 colors, Organic shape
• Other Markings: Dark Purple Eyeshadow
• Doo-Dads: Nose Ring, 6 ear piercings, Hair ties in tail and mane
• Mane/Tail: Blunt Bangs, Fireball ponytail mane and tail.
• Costume: Latex hoof covers, studded belts purple latex coat, torn nylons

Without the costume, this would also be a mostly standard project. Complexity is added with the piercings and heavy makeup.

Without the costume and made in Cotton this would be about 160 USD. In Minky, it would be about 180 USD. Adding a costume would easily make this over 200 USD. 

Crystal Pop - "Complex"

This may look like a standard pony but it would actually rank as a highly complex pony due to the multiple color changes in the wings and in her mane. She's also got jewelry, heavy makeup, and 3D eyelashes. This pony would be expensive to make.

• 8 Fabric Colors
• Standard Mare Pegasus (open wings)
• Cutie Mark: 2 colors, pale blue dark blue, internal lines, simple design
• Other Marking: Heart beauty Mark, 3d eyelashes, eye makeup
• Doo-Dads: Earrings, Choker, Saddle, Shoes
• Mane/Tail: Long-ish hair, many color changes

Without the extra costume bits, this would start at 175 USD in Cotton and 190 USD in Minky.

Nightmare Acid - "Complex Variation"

This one is do-able but it's got some complicated color changes in the body thanks to the flame style hooves.

• 4 Fabric Colors: 4
• Standard Princess Body with Dragon Horns
• Cutie Mark: 3 colors, organic shape
• Mane/Tail: Flame Style Man and Tail
• Other Marking: eye makeup, Flame Hoof Markings
• Doo-Dads: Earrings, Necklace, Nose ring, 3D Lashes

In cotton I would estimate this at around 160 USD and 175 USD in Minky. 

Ivy Bloom - "Very Complex" (Beyond my Scope)

Arguably the most complex potential project. This would be an example of a project I would probably turn down at this time. 

There are a lot of gradients in this design, but even ignoring that part, the legs, hooves, and hairstyle pose the biggest challenges. But really it's the hair that would ultimately deter me from tackling this one. I'd need some one to guide my hand on the hair design or simplify it. Not saying that this is impossible to plush, but this is beyond my scope at this time. 

Pony Plush Evaluation

The first part of the plushing process is evaluating the request. This will determine if it is a project I can confidently complete or if there need to be adjustments to the design. It also determines the price of the project. You can check out my Sample Evaluation Post for a clearer idea.

The main things I consider are: 

• Body Shape and Size
• Mane and Tail Shape
• Colors Needed
• Number of Markings 
• Extra Accessories or Costumes

What I need from the Client

The minimal requirement is a reference image of the pony from the side. 

This gives a good view of the markings and general shape of the pony. For the pony above I would want both sides of the head to understand better how the mane works and see if the beauty mark is on one side only. 

Obviously, the more references I have the better.

Here's what I look for...

Body Shape

The MLP universe is full of diversity in its characters and this makes referencing the show a bit tricky to keep up with in terms of patterns. I do have some flexibility when it comes to adjusting my current patterns, but not much. This is usually the deciding factor on whether I take on a project or not. 

I have the following patterns: 

• Standard Mare Pony
• Standard Stallion Pony (2 Head variations)
• Princess Ponies (Luna/Celestia Style)
• Kirin Ponies
• Filly/Colt (Cutime Mark Crusader size)
• Lay down Pony Pose ("Life-Sized" pony)
• Merpony (Fish Tail)
• Sea Pony (Seahorse Gen1)
• Bat Pony Ears and Wings
• Pegasus Wings - Open and Closed
• Alicorn Wings (Luna/Celestia) - Open and closed
• Unicorn Horn
• Alicorn Horn (Luna/Celestia)
• Kirin Horn
• Fairy wings/Butterfly Wings

I can pattern out different horn variations including goat, bull, broken horns, simple antlers, bladed, or curve horns. Adding more than one horn is also not an issue.

One of my few limitations is holes through the legs like Changlings have and I do not know a technique to make crystal ponies (at this time at least. I'm always looking to learn.)

While there are many creatures now included in the franchise, I am limited to things that are pony-like. This will leave out griffins, dragons, hippogriffs, Draconequus, Changlings, and Yaks. (It is not impossible to make these out of plush, there are many talented artists making these. I'm just not one of 'em!) 

Colors

How many colors does it take to make this pony? The more colors it needs the more expensive it can get. Minky comes in many shades, but most have to be ordered online by the yard. Solid colored Flannel or Cotton I can shop for locally and can get them cut to more precise measurements. Materials add to my cost, so it will add to yours. 

Body Markings

Anything outside of a solid coat color will add some complexity to the pattern. Examples of Body Markings include: 

• Freckles 
• Blaze/Star 
• Socks/Stockings (referring to the actual name of the markings, not the clothing.)
• Scars 
• Pinto Spots 
• Appaloosa Spots 
• Zebra Stripes 
• Tattoos (or extra cutie marks)
• 5 o'clock Shadow
• Lipstick/Heavy Makeup

Creating these markings out of fabric adds another color so will likely add more to the cost. If these things can be done with embroidery or airbrushing, it's a little more economical, but will still cost a little bit.

Cutie Mark/Expressions

A cutie mark is part of the package, by default I prefer to machine embroider them. There are designs that translate to embroidery easier than others. There's not a whole lot of room to work with on these patterns. I only have about 2 x 2 inches (5x5 cm) for standard size ponies. That means I look for a design with limited color palette and simple shapes. Outlines, gradients, and small details get lost. Having a shape that scales well is necessary.

 See the examples below:

Nice Simple Design

Would need to be simplified

Alternatively, Eyes and Cutie Marks can be added via appliqué (this is a technique cutting out overlapping shapes in cotton and sewing the edges with similar color using a satin stitch or blanket stitch) or printed with infusible ink onto a patch that is added to the pony. 

By default, I expect to use black, white, three shades for the iris. Adding eye shadow, multiple eye colors, major eyebrows (like Tree Hugger) or Heterochromia eyes will incur extra charges.

Mouths are either embroidered, needle sculpted, or can be left off entirely. Smiles, frowns, smirks, grins and silly tongues are plausible. I cannot do true open mouth expressions. 

Poses

By default, most patterns have a simple standing pose or a laying down pose. This allows for easy display and balance. I can add an armature inside the pony to help make it hold poses if you desire. By default, I will not add this. 

You must note if you want the head to be turning head that you can move. By default, the head is attached in a posed way and it stays that way. 

Manes and Tails

Most manes and tails need new patterning for OC characters. What makes this part more expensive will be based on the number of colors needed, length, complexity, and if there is accompanying facial hair.

*Note: If your OC pony's mane is asymmetrical, like Rarity or Fluttershy, where part of the mane falls on one side and the rest on the other side. I would like references for both sides.

As far as tails go, it is possible to do "odd" or non-pony type tails such as lion tails, dragon tails, deer/bunny tails, cat tails etc. 

Facial hair outside of a 5 o'clock shadow/stubble I generally consider part of the mane and tail. A small mustache, side burns or soul patch, generally won't cost extra. However, longer beards or mustaches like Starswirl the Bearded or Sunburst require more fabric.

Extra Doo-dads

Things like fangs, tongues, piercings, and sparkles that add complexity to the finished product can lead to extra charges.

Some examples of extras include:

• Fangs
• Detachable body parts (tongue, wings, fangs)
• Detachable props (stuffed taco)
• Piercings
• Jewelry
• Hats/Crowns
• Outfits
• LED Lights
• Glitter
• Gems

Final Price Estimates

Not to scare anyone, but sometimes there is some sticker shock when it comes to prices for custom plush ponies. Because these are one of a kind (OOAK) personalized plushies with high customization, the price is much higher than what you'd buy at a department store for an "official plushie".

On average, most of the "standard" size ponies will range between at least 120USD to 400USD depending on materials.

My large plushies which are usually about 3ft long, these start at about 250USD.

On the lower end of things, such as bean bag size smaller ponies, it may start out at about 50USD.

Please keep in mind these are estimated averages and each project will vary. If you're on a budget, I am happy to make things out of cheaper material or split the payment into two. A down payment and a finished product payment. I can offer discounts if you order more than one plushie at a time.

Example Ponies:

Lotor Pony, fitted with armature for posing, machine embroidered eyes and cutie mark, hand stitched mouth and nose.

Willow Wisp, hand embroidered eyes and cutie marks, no mouth or nose, detachable wings, no armature. (I made this pony's eyes before I got my embroidery machine.)

Commercial Commissions

Commercial Projects

What is a commercial project?  By definition this means that the end product is created to make profit for the owner. For example: Art that is put on a shirt to sell.
The shirt seller can make as many shirts as they want and sell them. The artist that created the art only gets paid once for their work.

If you plan on using my art for a commercial project, I require a licensing fee. I give up my rights to use the art for my own commercial gain in exchange for the fee. (So, if you sell shirts, I can't turn around and use the art on tank-tops and compete directly.) 

A licensing fee is negotiated between myself, the artist and the client. I prefer to use a flat percentage fee which can be broken up into a payment plan if necessary. On some occasions, I will accept a share of profits after the product ships.

I am available only to smaller projects as I prefer to keep my other commission types available and work on my own projects.

Types of Commercial Work I am Available for: 

• Book Cover/Box Art Illustration
• Book illustration (limit 20)
• Visual Novel Sprites/CG Artist 
• RPG Maker sprites
• Promo Items: Art for t-shirts, advertising, etc

Commission Statuses

Here's what my various commission Statuses mean.

Closed

I am not taking commissions of this type. Any attempts at requesting will be turned down. I usually close commissions when I am at capacity, too busy at work, or something dun broke. Keep an eye on my Trello to see what my workload is like. Closed commissions do NOT have a wait list. 

Wait Listed/Pre-Order

I expect to finish the current batch soon and the wait list is open for pre-orders. Once I reach capacity, it will close again. Learn more about the waiting list system on my Waitlist Newsletter page.

Open

I am available for commission. Usually this means all slots are free and I don't expect them to fill up quickly. You will see a form and sign up information on the page.